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    <title>half-acre-homestead</title>
    <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com</link>
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      <title>What's up, homi?</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/my-little-homi</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
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           The Homi: A Korean Tool Every Gardener Should Know
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           If you’ve never heard of a Homi, you’re not alone—but once you use one, it might just become your favorite garden tool.
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            The
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           Homi
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            , also called a
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           Korean hand hoe
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            or
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           Korean weeding tool
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           , has been used for centuries in Korean agriculture. It’s a small, sturdy tool with a curved, pointed blade and a short wooden handle. The design is deceptively simple—but incredibly versatile.
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           What It’s Good For
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            The Homi is a
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           multitasker’s dream
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            in the garden. You can use it for:
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            Digging small planting holes
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            Loosening compacted soil
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            Weeding (especially between tight rows)
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            Transplanting seedlings
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            Making furrows for seeds
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            Harvesting root crops
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            Its
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           sharp, angled blade
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            allows you to slice through soil and roots with precision. It’s strong enough for tough clay but nimble enough for delicate seedling work.
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           Why It Belongs in Your Garden Shed
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            What sets the Homi apart is its
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           comfort and efficiency
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           . Unlike longer-handled tools that can strain your wrists, the Homi keeps your movements close and controlled—perfect for raised beds, container gardens, and detailed weeding.
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           It’s compact, lightweight, and surprisingly durable. Many homesteaders say they reach for their Homi more than any other tool once they’ve tried it.
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           Final Thoughts
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           The Homi is proof that you don’t need a high-tech gadget to get the job done in the garden. Sometimes, the best tools are the ones that have stood the test of time.
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            If you're looking for one tool to weed, dig, and plant on your half-acre or backyard garden,
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           the Homi is it.
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      <pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2025 18:53:34 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/my-little-homi</guid>
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    <item>
      <title>Deer Mouse</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/deer-mouse</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
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           Raising Deer Mice: An Unexpected Quarantine Tale
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           Back in 2020, right at the beginning of COVID lockdowns, my oldest daughter made a surprising discovery: a tiny nest of baby mice—
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           in the glovebox of her car
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           .
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           Now, I’ll admit it—I'm a softie when it comes to animals, especially babies. So when my kids asked if we could take care of them, I said yes. How hard could it be to raise four baby mice? After all, they had a little fur and mice mature quickly… right?
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            Well, thank goodness we were all stuck at home, because the next few weeks were a blur of round-the-clock feedings and very little sleep. Turns out, newborn mice need to be fed
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           every two hours
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            , and at that age, they’re so small and delicate that the only way we could feed them was by dipping a tiny artist’s paintbrush into warm
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           puppy formula
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            and letting them lap it up drop by drop.
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           I begged my daughter to please get a live trap and catch the mother who was presumably still in the car. We desperately needed her to nurse her babies so we could get some sleep! Unfortunately she was found having met an untiley death in the melted remnants of a milkshake.
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           We kept up the feeding regimen. Despite our efforts, two of the babies didn’t survive, but the other two did, and we ended up raising them into adulthood...and beyond.
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  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
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           What We Learned About Deer Mice
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            The little mice we rescued were
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           deer mice
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            , not the common house mice most people are familiar with.
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           Deer mice (Peromyscus maniculatus)
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            are native to North America and are easily identified by their
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           big dark eyes
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            ,
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           white underbellies
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            , and
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           bicolored tails
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           . Unlike house mice, which are gray all over, deer mice look a bit like miniature squirrels or chipmunks.
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            They’re known for their
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           agility
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            and ability to
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           climb and balance on branches
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           , making them especially squirrel-like in their behavior. While they can find their way into homes or sheds—especially during cold weather—they’re generally more at home in woodpiles, barns, and brushy areas. In my experience, they’re far less of a nuisance indoors than house mice.
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           Our two survivors grew into clean, shy, and surprisingly friendly little creatures. We kept them in a large enclosure with natural branches and a running wheel, and over time they adapted well to our presence. They weren’t exactly cuddly, but they were sweet in their own way—and endlessly fascinating to watch.
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            And here's the kicker—they both lived to be over
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           five years old
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           , which is incredibly long-lived for a deer mouse. In the wild, most don’t make it past a year or two due to predators and harsh conditions. In captivity, with a little care and consistency, they can thrive.
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           Would I Do It Again?
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           Even with the sleep deprivation and learning curve, raising those baby deer mice turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of the early pandemic for our family. It taught my kids (and myself) not to take on responsibilities before fully understanding the consequences. It gave us a connection to nature during a time of isolation, and gave those little creatures a chance they wouldn’t have had otherwise.
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           Would I do it again? Probably not but I don't regret the experience.
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            ﻿
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      <pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2025 18:34:54 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/deer-mouse</guid>
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    <item>
      <title>Pheasant Back Mushroom</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/pheasant-back-mushroom</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
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           Pheasant Back Mushroom: Nature’s Overlooked Edible
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            If you’ve ever walked through the woods in spring and noticed a fan-shaped mushroom with a feather-like pattern, chances are you’ve met the
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           Pheasant Back Mushroom
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            (Cerioporus squamosus), also known as
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           Dryad’s Saddle
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           . Often overshadowed by more glamorous fungi, this wild edible is easy to identify, abundant, and worth getting to know.
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  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
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           How to Identify It
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            Pheasant Back mushrooms grow on dead or dying hardwood trees, especially elm and boxelder. I found them in my front yard growing above the decomposing roots and underground stump of a magnolia tree. They usually appear in the
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           cool, damp days of spring and early summer
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           , though fall flushes are possible.
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  &lt;p&gt;&#xD;
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           Key features:
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  &lt;ul&gt;&#xD;
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            Large, fan- or kidney-shaped caps (4–12 inches wide)
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            Brown, scale-like markings that resemble pheasant feathers
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            White pores underneath (not gills)
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            Cucumber or watermelon rind-like scent
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  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xD;
  &lt;h3&gt;&#xD;
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           Foraging &amp;amp; Eating
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            These mushrooms are best harvested
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           young and tender
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           . As they age, they become woody and nearly impossible to chew. Use a knife to slice the edge of the cap—if your blade glides through easily, it’s good to go!
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  &lt;p&gt;&#xD;
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            Pheasant Back has a
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           mild, nutty flavor
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           . It works well in:
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  &lt;ul&gt;&#xD;
    &lt;li&gt;&#xD;
      &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
        
            Stir-fries
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            Creamy soups
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            Mushroom gravies
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            Dehydrated mushroom powder for broths
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           Pro tip: With larger mushrooms peel off the tougher pores before cooking to improve texture.
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           Homestead Value
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           Beyond food, Pheasant Back mushrooms indicate healthy forest decomposition and can be part of a larger foraging plan. They're a great way to stretch your seasonal harvests and diversify your pantry.
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  &lt;p&gt;&#xD;
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           Pheasant Back may not be the star of the mushroom world, but it’s a reliable, wild food ally for any homesteader. Keep your eyes open—you might just find dinner growing on a log.
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      <pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2025 17:41:21 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/pheasant-back-mushroom</guid>
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      <title>Goosefoot</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/goosefoot-lambsquarters</link>
      <description />
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           Goosefoot: The Wild Green You Didn’t Know You Needed
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           Goosefoot, or Lambsquarters (Chenopodium album) is one of the most underrated wild edibles growing in backyards, garden beds, and along fences across North America. Often dismissed as a weed, this resilient plant is actually a nutritional powerhouse—and a favorite among foragers and homesteaders alike.
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           What Is It?
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           Goosefoot, also known as wild spinach, is a fast-growing annual that thrives in disturbed soil. It has diamond-shaped leaves that look dusted with a silvery-white powder, especially on the undersides. It can grow up to 5 feet tall and produces small, greenish flower clusters.
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           Why You Should Eat It
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           Don’t let its “weed” status fool you. Goosefoot is packed with:
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  &lt;ul&gt;&#xD;
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            Vitamins A and C
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            Calcium, iron, and magnesium
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            Protein and fiber
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           Its taste is similar to spinach—mild, earthy, and perfect for sautéing, steaming, or tossing into soups, omelets, or smoothies. Just be sure to harvest young, tender leaves and cook or blanch them to reduce naturally occurring oxalates.
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           A Homesteader’s Friend
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           Besides being edible, Goosefoot improves your soil by pulling up nutrients from deep underground with its long taproot. If you find it growing on your land, consider it a gift! Let some go to seed and you’ll have a free, nutrient-rich green every year with zero effort.
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           Next time you’re weeding the garden, think twice before pulling Goosefoot. It might just be the most nutritious thing growing on your property!
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      <pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2025 17:27:28 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/goosefoot-lambsquarters</guid>
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      <title>Goldfish</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/goldfish</link>
      <description />
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           Goldfish - Carassius auratus
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            ﻿
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           Goldfish are more than just colorful additions to indoor aquariums—they can thrive in outdoor garden ponds, offering numerous benefits to your garden's ecosystem and overall ambiance. Here’s why adding goldfish to your pond can be a fantastic decision.
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           1. Natural Pest Control
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           Goldfish are excellent at controlling pests like mosquitoes. They feed on mosquito larvae and other small insects that might otherwise proliferate in standing water. This reduces the need for chemical pest control methods and keeps your garden more comfortable for you and your family.
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            ﻿
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           2. Enhancing Water Quality
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           Goldfish contribute to the balance of your pond’s ecosystem. As they swim and stir the water, they prevent stagnation, which helps maintain oxygen levels. Additionally, their waste, when managed properly with aquatic plants and a filtration system, acts as a natural fertilizer, promoting the growth of plants like water lilies and reeds.
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           3. Low Maintenance Companions
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           Compared to other pond fish, goldfish are hardy and adaptable. They can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, making them suitable for many climates. With proper care, including feeding, pond cleaning, and occasional health checks, they can live for many years.
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           4. Aesthetic Appeal
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           Goldfish come in a variety of stunning colors, from vibrant orange and gold to shimmering white and calico patterns. Watching their graceful movements in a pond adds a calming and visually appealing element to any garden. Their presence creates a dynamic focal point that enhances the overall beauty of the space.
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           An outdoor garden pond with goldfish can transform your backyard into a vibrant, serene oasis. By introducing these hardy, beautiful fish to your pond, you can create a thriving ecosystem that benefits your garden while providing you with endless enjoyment.
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           Whether you're a seasoned gardener or just starting out, goldfish are a delightful addition that brings life and balance to any outdoor space.
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      <pubDate>Fri, 17 Jan 2025 15:47:25 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/goldfish</guid>
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      <title>Nasturtium</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/nasturtium</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
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           A Vibrant and Versatile Garden Favorite
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           Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum spp.) are vibrant, easy-to-grow plants that bring a splash of color to gardens and plates alike. With their distinctive round leaves and bright, funnel-shaped flowers in shades of red, orange, yellow, and cream, they are loved by gardeners and chefs. Native to South and Central America, nasturtiums thrive in various conditions, often growing as annuals in temperate regions.
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           Edibility and Culinary Uses
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           Nasturtiums are not only ornamental but also edible. While I think they're more commonly grown for their looks they're also tasty. Both the leaves and flowers have a peppery flavor, similar to arugula, making them a popular addition to salads, sandwiches, and garnishes. The immature seed pods can be pickled and used as a substitute for capers. Rich in vitamins A and C, nasturtium adds both nutrition and a visual pop to dishes.
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           Benefits in the Garden
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           In the garden, nasturtiums serve as excellent companion plants. They attract beneficial insects like bees and repel pests such as aphids and squash bugs. Additionally, nasturtiums can act as a "trap crop," luring pests away from more vulnerable plants.
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           Medicinal and Historical Use
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           Historically, nasturtiums have been used for their medicinal properties, particularly for respiratory and urinary tract infections. The plant contains natural compounds with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. Herbalists have long valued it for boosting the immune system and promoting wound healing.
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           Low Maintenance and High Reward
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           Nasturtiums are easy to grow for beginner gardeners, as they require little care and can grow in poor soil. Whether trailing over the edges of containers, sprawling as ground cover, or climbing trellises, they pretty and bring cheer to any space with their bright colors and lush foliage.
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           With its vibrant blooms, edible leaves and flowers, and pest-repellent qualities, nasturtium is a versatile plant that enriches gardens and kitchens alike.
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      <pubDate>Thu, 19 Sep 2024 16:41:26 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/nasturtium</guid>
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      <title>Wood Sorrel</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/wood-sorrel</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
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           A Delicate and Edible Wild Plant
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            ﻿
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           Common Yellow Wood Sorrel (
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           Oxalis stricta)
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            is a small, perennial herb found in many parts of the world, from woodlands to gardens. It is often recognized by its clover-like leaves, each divided into three heart-shaped leaflets. The leaves fold at night or in bad weather. Wood sorrel produces delicate five-petaled flowers in shades of white, yellow, or pink, depending on the species.
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           Edibility and Uses
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           Wood sorrel is notable for its pleasant, sweet and tart flavor, which comes from the oxalic acid it contains—also found in spinach and rhubarb. This makes it a popular foraging plant. This plant grows wild all over my yard and I let it. The leaves, flowers, and seed pods are all edible and can be used to add a lemony zest to salads, soups, or teas.
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           Cultural and Medicinal Significance
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           Historically, wood sorrel has been used in folk medicine for its cooling and thirst-quenching properties. Some indigenous cultures also used it to treat fevers or as a mild diuretic. However, due to its oxalic acid content, it should be consumed in moderation, as high levels of oxalates can interfere with calcium absorption.
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           Ecological Role
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           In nature, wood sorrel plays a role in the ecosystem by providing food for pollinators like bees and butterflies. Its ability to thrive in shaded, damp areas helps stabilize soil and prevent erosion.
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           With its dainty appearance and culinary versatility, wood sorrel is a charming and useful plant that can be enjoyed in both wild and cultivated settings.
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      <pubDate>Thu, 19 Sep 2024 15:51:22 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/wood-sorrel</guid>
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      <title>Chicory</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/copy-of-aci-sivri-kil-chili</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
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           Cichorium intybus
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           Cichorium intybus, commonly known as chicory, is well known as a coffee substitute but is also widely used medicinally to treat various ailments ranging from wounds to diabetes.
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      <pubDate>Sun, 08 Sep 2024 01:00:23 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/copy-of-aci-sivri-kil-chili</guid>
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      <title>Aci Sivri Kil Chili</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/aci-sivri-kil</link>
      <description />
      <content:encoded>&lt;div data-rss-type="text"&gt;&#xD;
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           A Turkish Chili with a Cayenne Kick
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            The Aci Sivri Kil,
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    &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
      
           Capsicum annuum
          &#xD;
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    &lt;span&gt;&#xD;
      
           , is a traditional Turkish pepper known for its long, slender form and spicy heat. Growing up to 10 inches in length, these peppers start out green, maturing to a deep red hue. Their firm, crisp texture makes them ideal for pickling, but they can also be ground into chili powder or used cut up in any recipe calling for a little spice. Their heat is comparable to cayenne and I usually use it similarly, drying and storing for later use.
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            This pepper thrives in short growing seasons, making it a popular variety in areas with cooler climates, like the the Great Lakes region. Introduced to the United States in the 1990s by the 'Seeds of Change' company, Aci Sivri Kil has become a favorite among growers for its high yields and versatility. While heat levels vary between plants, the pepper generally offers a fruity undertone beneath its heat, making it perfect for creating chili flakes, powders, and hot sauces. I like spicy food but don't enjoy torturing myself; I find this level of heat just about right. It's noticeable without being uncomfortable.
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           I've grown this chili for two years in a row having first gotten it from Thresh Seeds and since from saved seed. Maturing at around 75-90 days, this pepper is an excellent option for those seeking flavor, heat, and productivity in their gardens, especially where the growing season is a little shorter. It's become a reliable, low maintenance, productive, and delicious regular in my garden.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 07 Sep 2024 19:11:28 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/aci-sivri-kil</guid>
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      <title>Breeding Quail</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/breeding-quail</link>
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           Selecting for traits and qualities
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           My first group of quail came to me as day old chicks. Since then I've incubated my own eggs to keep flock numbers up and also ordered eggs for the specific varieties I want and to keep a genetic variation up. As my flock continues to age I've been thinking about the specific birds I like, either for looks or other characteristics, and what I would do if I lost them. One bird in particular, Cornelius, is a white Texas A&amp;amp;M with a cool black mullet. He also is the tamest of all my birds and I would like to have more like him. In contrast, I have some tuxedos that despite being raised the same way are very nervous and flighty. Even though I like their looks I don't want more that act like them. So this summer I set up "the Love Shack", a repurposed rabbit hutch that my brother-in-law gave me. It's secure, large enough for eight birds, and separate from the rest of the flock. I took Cornelius and three lucky bachelorettes who were also selected for their traits and put all four birds in the Love Shack for a week. As they laid eggs each day I collected them and put them in the refrigerator until I'd collected enough to incubate. I'm pleased to have ended up with six new chicks when it was all said and done, one of which looks just like its daddy!
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      <pubDate>Fri, 06 Sep 2024 17:10:51 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/breeding-quail</guid>
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      <title>Guide to Saving Seeds</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/my-post</link>
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           A Step by Step Approach
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           If you're a passionate gardener, you probably know that growing heirloom plants is a rewarding way to connect with traditional agricultural practices. One of the most satisfying aspects of cultivating heirloom varieties is saving your own seeds for future planting. This practice not only helps you maintain plant diversity but also ensures that you have a continuous supply of the varieties you love. Here’s a straightforward, step-by-step guide to help you save heirloom seeds effectively.
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           Step 1: Choose the Right Plants
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           Not all plants are ideal candidates for seed saving. For the best results, select healthy, robust heirloom plants that have shown strong growth throughout the season. Look for plants with desirable traits such as good flavor, high yield, or disease resistance. Avoid plants that appear to be diseased or stressed, as their seeds may not perform well.
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           Step 2: Allow Seeds to Mature
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           Heirloom seeds need to mature fully on the plant to ensure they are viable. This can vary by plant type:
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           Vegetables (Tomatoes, Peppers, Beans): Allow the fruits to ripen completely on the plant. For tomatoes and peppers, this means waiting until they are overripe and starting to shrivel.
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           Fruiting Plants (Cucumbers, Squash): Leave the fruits on the plant until they are fully mature and starting to dry out.
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           Greens (Lettuce, Spinach): Allow the plants to go to seed, which means letting them bolt and produce flower heads. Once the seeds are dry and brown, they’re ready to harvest.
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           Step 3: Harvest Seeds
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           When seeds are ready, it's time to harvest:
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           Dry Seeds: For plants like beans and peas, remove the pods and let them dry completely before extracting the seeds. You can use a paper bag or an old envelope to collect them.
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           Fruiting Seeds: For tomatoes and peppers, scoop out the seeds and rinse them in a sieve. Spread them out on a paper towel to dry.
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           Seeds from Greens: Shake or cut the dried flower heads into a container to release the seeds. For smaller seeds, use a sieve or screen to separate them from the chaff.
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           Step 4: Clean the Seeds
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           Proper cleaning is crucial to ensure seed longevity:
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           Remove Debris: Use a small brush or cloth to clean off any remaining plant material.
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           For seeds like tomatoes and other pulpy fruit scoop out the seeds and rinse as much of the pulp and plant matter away as you can. Put the seeds and remaining pulp in a container with water and let sit in a warm spot (80-90°F) for at least one day, avoiding direct sunlight, to allow the remaining pulp to ferment. During fermentation, the tomato seeds will separate from the gelatinous coating surrounding them. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom, while dead seeds and debris will float.
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           Once a thin layer of mold forms on the surface, carefully pour off the floating solids and dead seeds. Rinse the sunken seeds thoroughly under running water, using a fine mesh strainer for best results. After cleaning, spread the seeds on a screen or coffee filter to dry for 5-7 days.
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           Step 5: Store Seeds Properly
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           To keep your heirloom seeds viable, store them in a cool, dry place:
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           Containers: Use airtight containers like glass jars, plastic bags, or sealed envelopes. Label each container with the plant type and date of harvest.
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            Location: Store seeds in a cool, dark place. A dry basement, a cool closet, or even a refrigerator can be ideal. I keep my seeds in a case I bought on Amazon. It has 50 small vials with cork stoppers that are especially good for small seeds. Larger seeds I vacuum seal. Everything is stored in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator.
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           Step 6: Test Seed Viability
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           Before planting saved seeds, it’s a good idea to test their viability to ensure they will germinate:
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           Germination Test: Place a few seeds on a damp paper towel, fold it, and place it in a warm, dark location. Check the seeds in a week or so to see how many have germinated. This will give you an idea of their viability.
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           Step 7: Use and Rotate Seeds
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           When planting saved seeds, remember to use them within a few years for the best results. Heirloom seeds generally have a good shelf life but may lose potency over time. Rotate your seeds regularly to maintain a healthy gene pool and ensure continued plant vigor.
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           Saving heirloom seeds is an empowering and enjoyable part of gardening. By following these steps, you can continue to grow the varieties you cherish, contribute to the preservation of plant diversity, and enjoy the satisfaction of nurturing plants from your own saved seeds. Happy seed saving!
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      <pubDate>Wed, 04 Sep 2024 16:44:06 GMT</pubDate>
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      <title>Buying Seeds</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/buying-seeds</link>
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           Some of my trusted seed sources
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           So you're thinking about starting seeds for your garden. Before you get your hands dirty, let’s chat about something super important—where you get your garden seeds. It might not seem like a big deal,  but choosing seeds from reliable sources can make a world of difference! I know it's tempting to buy those super cheap seeds at the dollar store, or the end of season clearance packets, and you may be thinking, "what do I have to lose? They're only a buck." What you have to lose is a lot of time and effort that could delay you for another season! Don't get cheap when it comes to buying your seeds!
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            Seeds from trusted sources are often more reliable. They’re tested for quality and viability, so you’re more likely to get those beautiful blooms and tasty veggies you’re dreaming of. Imagine planting what you think are delicious heirloom tomatoes, only to discover they’re not what you expected.
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           Seeds from trusted sources are often unique varieties that aren't easily available. Some companies go to great lengths to find rare heirlooms from around the world to offer customers. Many reputable sellers are committed to environmentally friendly methods and fair trade practices. When you buy from them, you’re not just getting good seeds; you’re also supporting businesses that care about the planet and the people around the globe who are working with and for them. One of my favorite sources, Baker Creek Seeds, is an excellent example of a company that cares about people and the environment.
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           Finally, let’s not forget about the extra bonus of expert advice. Many established seed companies provide useful growing tips and detailed information about their seeds. They’re often happy to help with any questions you might have, making your gardening journey smoother and more enjoyable.
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           So, next time you’re shopping for seeds, remember to go with sources you can trust. It’s a small step that can lead to a garden full of thriving plants and happy surprises. Happy gardening! &amp;#55356;&amp;#57147;&amp;#55358;&amp;#56661;&amp;#55356;&amp;#57151;
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           Here are a few of my favorite seed sellers
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            Baker Creek Seeds:
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           www.rareseeds.com
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            Thresh Seed Company:
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           www.threshseed.com
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            Great Lakes Staple Seeds:
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           www.greatlakesstapleseeds.com
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      <pubDate>Tue, 03 Sep 2024 11:55:57 GMT</pubDate>
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      <title>Giant Golden Amaranth</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/gianr-golden-amarnth</link>
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           Stunning Beauty
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           Giant Golden Amaranth is a stunning, versatile plant that deserves a spot in your garden. This ancient crop, revered by the Aztecs, is not only a beautiful addition to your landscape but also a nutritional powerhouse. Growing up to 8 feet tall, this amaranth variety is known for its vibrant golden plumes that transition into seed heads, packed with protein-rich seeds.
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           Amaranth has a deep-rooted history, particularly with the Aztecs, who cultivated it both for its nutritional value and its sacred significance in ceremonies. Its cultivation was banned by conquistadors in an effort to suppress Aztec culture. Despite this, amaranth persisted in the wild and eventually re-emerged as a valuable crop, especially known for its high protein content.
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           Giant Golden Amaranth thrives in warm weather, with soil temperatures between 65-75°F being ideal for germination. To get started, sow the seeds directly in your garden, lightly covering them with soil. The seeds usually sprout in just 3-4 days! Once your seedlings are established, thin them out to about 18 inches apart to give them room to grow tall.
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           This plant prefers full sun and well-drained soil, although it’s quite forgiving and can tolerate poorer soil conditions and even drought once established. Amaranth’s resilience and height make it an excellent choice for various garden uses, whether you’re planting it in rows, using it as a natural trellis for beans, or even incorporating it into a Three Sisters garden alongside corn and beans.
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           When it comes to harvesting, the real fun begins when the golden plumes turn into seed heads in late summer to early fall. You’ll know it’s time to harvest when you can shake the seeds loose from the flower stalk. The seeds are incredibly versatile—they can be boiled into a nutritious porridge, popped like popcorn, or even ground into flour. Plus, the young leaves make a fantastic spinach substitute.
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           Keep an eye out for flea beetles, especially when your plants are young. Floating row covers can help protect your seedlings until they are strong enough to handle minor pest damage. Regular weeding is also essential in the early stages, but once your amaranth is established, it will outcompete most weeds.
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           Whether you’re looking to add a visually striking plant to your garden, boost your homegrown food supply with a nutrient-rich grain, or explore new culinary adventures, Giant Golden Amaranth is a fantastic choice. Its easy-growing nature and impressive benefits make it a must-try for any gardener.
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           Ready to give it a go? Happy planting!
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      <pubDate>Tue, 03 Sep 2024 11:55:52 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/gianr-golden-amarnth</guid>
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      <title>Black Strawberry Tomato</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/black-strawberry-tomato</link>
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           A Sweet Plum-sized Producer
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            These seeds were purchased from
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           Baker Creek Seeds
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            . This is their description:
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           Indeterminate
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           60 days
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           Full Sun
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           Sprouts in 7-14 Days
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           Ideal Temperature: 75-95 Degrees F
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           Seed Depth: 1/8 inch
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           Plant Spacing: 24"
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           Frost Hardy: No
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           Solanum lycopersicum
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            ﻿
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           "Fantastic, sugar-sweet tomato flavor, that is fruity, with a hint of grape and plum flavors. If you relish the experience of digging into a bowl of high-quality cocktail tomatoes, then the Black Strawberry is your tomato. This 2-ounce fruit is marbled in purple, pink, green and gold. A bowl full resembles a luminous and luxurious bunch of gems, and indeed the flavor is decadent and indulgent, with perfectly balanced sweet and tart flavor! This extremely productive and early variety is an obvious choice for gardeners and market farmers who want rugged, early-producing plants but do not want to sacrifice eating quality. This variety produces much diversity in color, and some plants may produce grape-shaped fruit. One of the best-tasting tomatoes we have tried!"
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           These really were a great addition to the garden. They're delicious, beautiful, early indeterminate producers that gave a great harvest. Additionally, the seeds took off really well and most of the seedlings survived. The fruit is perfect and consistent too. I enjoyed watching the tomatoes go from green to black and then to pink and red. Picking one or two to eat whenever I was out in the garden became a habit I and was able to do so for much of the Summer. I highly recommend this one!
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      <pubDate>Sun, 01 Sep 2024 14:53:10 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/black-strawberry-tomato</guid>
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      <title>Comfrey</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/comfrey</link>
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           Symphytum grandiflorum: The Charming Large-Flowered Comfrey
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           If you’re looking for a unique plant to spice up your garden, let me introduce you to Symphytum grandiflorum, commonly known as large-flowered comfrey. This charming perennial might just be the perfect addition you didn’t know you needed.
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           What’s So Special About Symphytum grandiflorum? First off, this plant is a bit of a showstopper. With its large, heart-shaped leaves and clusters of dainty, bell-shaped flowers, it’s hard not to fall in love with its beauty. The flowers, which bloom in late spring to early summer, can be white or pale blue, adding a soft, elegant touch to your garden space. And you know what else? It's practically impossible to kill. If it's getting long and gangly just trim it down and it'll recover before you know it.
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           You should consider adding Symphytum grandiflorum to your garden. This comfrey variety is fantastic for soil health. Its deep roots work like nature’s rototiller, breaking up compacted soil and improving drainage. Plus, it draws up nutrients from deeper soil layers, which can then benefit neighboring plants.
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           Beyond its soil benefits, Symphytum grandiflorum is a great companion plant. It makes an excellent ground cover, helping to suppress weeds and keep the soil moist. Its leaves can also be used as a nutrient-rich mulch or compost, giving back to the garden in more ways than one.
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           A Bit of Caution; while Symphytum grandiflorum is great for the garden, it’s worth noting that, like other comfreys, it has compounds that can be toxic if ingested in large quantities. So, it's best used as an ornamental plant and compost addition rather than for any medicinal purposes.
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           Growing Symphytum grandiflorum is pretty straightforward. It thrives in partial to full shade, which makes it a perfect choice for those shadier spots in your garden. It enjoys well-drained, moist soil, so keep an eye on watering, especially during dry spells. Plant it about 18 inches apart to give it room to spread out and flourish.
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      <pubDate>Sun, 25 Aug 2024 13:38:59 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/comfrey</guid>
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      <title>New York Red (Robin) Corn</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/new-york-red-robin-corn</link>
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           A northern climate heirloom gem
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            New York Red Robin is an heirloom Dent corn, originally from the northeastern United States. I've grown this variety for several years having purchased seed from
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           Thresh Seed Company
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           . Each of the last couple seasons I've grown seedlings from saved seeds saved the previous year. It has been a fast growing and reliable corn variety and I love the way it looks. The biggest problem I've experienced so far is that the chipmunks also enjoy it a lot.
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           Historical Roots
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           New York Red Dent corn has been cultivated since the early 19th century, particularly valued for its adaptability and resilience in varying climates. As an heirloom variety, it has been passed down through generations, and cherished by farmers and gardeners alike for its reliable performance and distinct qualities.
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           Characteristics
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            Kernel Color and Texture: This corn is easily recognizable by its vibrant red kernels with a dented appearance. The kernels are not just colorful; they also have a unique texture that sets them apart from other varieties.
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           Size and Growth
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           New York Red Dent corn typically grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet, producing ears that are about 8 to 10 inches long. The plant is sturdy and well-suited to a range of soil types, making it a versatile choice for gardeners.
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           Uses
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           Traditionally, New York Red Dent corn is used for a variety of purposes. Its kernels are ideal for grinding into meal or flour, perfect for baking or making polenta. Additionally, the corn can be used as animal feed, showcasing its agricultural versatility. My original intention was to use this to feed my quail. I will probably try to use it for cooking at some point.
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           Cultivation Tips
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           Soil and Space: This variety thrives in well-drained, fertile soil. Ensure that the planting area receives full sun and provides ample space for the corn to grow. Corn plants require good air circulation to prevent diseases.
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           Planting
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           Sow seeds directly into the garden after the last frost, planting them about 1 inch deep and 6 to 12 inches apart. Corn is best grown in blocks rather than rows to ensure proper pollination.
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           Care: Regular watering and fertilization are crucial for healthy growth. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Applying a balanced fertilizer can help support strong plant development and ear production.
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           Preservation and Heritage
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           Saving seeds from New York Red Dent corn is a practice that preserves its genetic diversity and continues its legacy. Harvest the seeds from fully mature ears and ensure they are dried thoroughly before storing them in a cool, dry place.
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            Ears will have varying degrees of yellow and red as you may notice in the pictures.   The kernels do vary in color from plant to plant ranging from yellowish to red. When seed saving I chose the darkest red kernels from the center of the healthiest looking cobs so the characteristics I like are preserved in future crops.
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           New York Red Dent corn is more than just a staple crop; it's a living piece of agricultural history. Whether you're interested in its unique culinary uses or its role in preserving heirloom varieties, this corn offers a meaningful connection to the past and a reliable addition to your garden.
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      <pubDate>Sun, 25 Aug 2024 13:06:53 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/new-york-red-robin-corn</guid>
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      <title>Hatching Quail Chicks</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/hatching-quail-chicks</link>
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           Incubation Instructions
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           My first experience with quail was through a company called Purely Poultry, which unfortunately is no longer in business. I was able to save their incubation instructions however and those are the basis of what you'll read here.
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           Step 1 Buy equipment
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           You'll want an incubator that is made for the type of eggs you're hatching, in this case quail eggs, which are quite small. I have a Jumble Egg  Incubator that I bought on Amazon. I has adjustable tray slots for different sized eggs and would work for eggs as large as duck I think. It also has a built in thermostat and hygrometer to measure humidity. I would say that accuracy in temperature and humidity is very important and I don't entirely trust the built in stuff so I bought a Govee digital bluetooth thermometer and hygrometer that I can read from my phone.  It sits inside the incubator near the eggs.. I would recommend buying the best incubator you can afford.
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           Step 2: Get the eggs
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           Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling your eggs. If you are collecting eggs from your own birds, be sure to choose eggs that are nice and clean, have no cracks or thin spots in their shells and ones that are evenly shaped and normally sized. Do not wash the eggs as this removes the protective coating and can force bacteria to enter the egg thru the porous shell. 
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           Keep the eggs at room temperature (65-70℉) out of the sun no more than 7 to 10 days. It is common to set eggs for hatching when they are 5-7 days old. Keep them in a cardboard carton with the large side face-up. If you are keeping them more than three days before incubating, shift and turn the eggs once a day. If you ordered hatching eggs through the mail, it is a good practice to let the newly arrived eggs rest at room temperature for about 12-24 hours before starting to incubate them.
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            Step 3 Set up Equipment to correct temperatures and humidity.
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           Clean the incubator thoroughly. Place it on a level surface out of direct sunlight, in an area that keeps a consistent room temperature. Start it up and add water to the bottom tray. Let it run for 2-3 days. You want a temperature of 100℉ with an acceptable range of 99.5-100.5℉. Humidity should be set to the 45-55%.
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           Step 4 Put the eggs in the incubator, turn and monitor regularly.
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           Once you feel confident that your incubator is working optimally, you can add your eggs. 
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           Mark your calendar for the day you place your eggs in the incubator and the day you need to stop turning them and adjust the humidity, which is 3 days before the end of the incubation time. 
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           The eggs will need to be turned 2-3 times per day. If you do not have an automatic turner, turn them yourself. We recommend that you gently write an X on one side of each egg with a pencil or sharpie marker to keep track of the eggs when turning.
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           Watch the humidity levels throughout the incubation time. You may either have to add warm water or soak up excess water.
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            Candling
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            You can begin candling your eggs after incubating for about a week. Using your
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           egg candler
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           , or a very bright flashlight, shine the light thru the back side of the egg shining towards you, placing the light almost directly on the surface of the egg, and observe. You are looking for signs of life, which can include blood vessels and a perfectly round air sac at the small end and a large dark mass at the large end. Transparent or a red ring are signs of a failed egg. 
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            Step 5 Hatching Lockdown
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            Stop turning your eggs or remove from turner about 3 days before the end of the incubation period. Raise the humidity within your incubator to the recommended level by adding warm water. As the chicks hatch,
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           do not interfere
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           . They may look like they are struggling, but they must get themselves out of the shells without help. Avoid opening the incubator until all the chicks are dry and fluffy as you don't want them to get chilled. Get your brooder ready for the chicks. The hatching process typically takes about 24-hours.
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            Step 6 Care for your chicks
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            After hatching see our
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           Chick Care
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            resource page for helpful information on caring for baby chicks. 
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            Check out our Blog on
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           Avoiding a Failure to Hatch Situation
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            for more information and tips on hatching. 
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           Golden Manchurians are a special color variation of Coturnix Quail, and they are sometimes just simply referred to as Gold Coturnix. The Golden Manchurian is a distinct variety with very light golden coloring. Males are lighter and more solid in color, and females are a bit darker and have more red and brown striping and patterning as well as stripes on the face. These are plump, hardy, and attractive little birds.
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           The Golden Manchurian coloring was first discovered and bred by Albert Marsh in 1960, a result of a natural mutation in his flock of brown-colored Coturnix Quail. The golden color is a dominant gene, so even when a golden is bred to the brown variations, you will get gold offspring.
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           Golden Manchurian Coturnix Quail are solid dual-purpose production birds. They can lay over 100 eggs per year beginning at about 6-7 weeks of age. They are also efficient as meat birds, reaching adult size in 6-8 weeks and weighing 3-6 ounces. Coturnix Quail are easy and simple to raise. They do not need much space and are quiet and calm. In many places where chickens may be not allowed or would be too noisy and obtrusive, quail would make a great substitute species.
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           Prolific eggs, quality meat, quick growth rate, and dependable reproduction make these birds perfect as a small farm enterprise or for a serious homestead. Golden Manchurian Coturnix Quail do well on a game bird or turkey starter feed.
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           Incubation Time: Golden Manchurian Coturnix Quail Hatching Eggs will hatch in about 18 days.
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           Temperature/Humidity: Golden Manchurian Eggs will hatch best if incubated at 100 degrees F, decreasing to 98.5 degrees F during the final three days of incubation. Humidity should be kept at 45-55% until day 14 when it should be raised to 55-65% until the chicks hatch. Turning the eggs three times a day for the first 14 days is a solid practice. After day 14, stop turning the eggs.
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           Special Incubation Notes: Start up your incubator 2-3 days before your eggs are due to arrive. This gives your incubator time to come fully to temperature and to stabilize humidity levels. It is also a good practice to let your newly arrived eggs rest at room temperature for about 12 hours before placing them in an incubator. Place them large side up in a clean and dry egg carton. Incubators should be kept in a room with a constant even temperature and out of the sun.
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           Days to Incubate
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           Chickens
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           21
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           Guineas
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           28
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           Valley Quail
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           21
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           28-34
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           Peafowl
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           28-30
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           Bobwhite Quail
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           23
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           28
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           23
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           Button Quail
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           17
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           24
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           28
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           Gambel Quail
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           22
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           Blue Scale Quail
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           23
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           Coturnix Quail
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           16-18
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           Quail Care
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           Quail 
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           are a classic game bird raised for hunting and sport, for release purposes, and for food production. In captivity, these birds can live 5-6 years in optimal conditions.
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           Shopping List
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           : 
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           Brooder Supplies
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           : Waterer, feeder, heat lamp reflector, heat bulb, kiln dried pine shavings, paper towels, electrolytes and vitamins, thermometer, draft-free enclosure, coop or other safe housing, and 
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           gamebird feed
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           . For beginners, we offer the quail-specific chick starter kit that includes everything you need to get started.
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           Suggested Reading
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      &lt;a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20230318122921/https://www.purelypoultry.com/upland-game-birds-their-breeding-and-care-p-984.html" target="_blank"&gt;&#xD;
        
            Upland Game Birds: Their Breeding and Care
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            A Closer Look at Button Quail
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           At the Post Office
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           : Promptly pick up your package and take your quail to their new home. If you ordered chicks, get them under the heat lamp as soon as possible. 
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           Live Guarantee
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           : We guarantee 
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           live arrival 
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           of all quail upon arrival to your post office. Loss must be reported within 24 hours of that arrival. Please see our full policy 
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           HERE
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           Brooder Requirements
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           : Young quail chicks are small and delicate and need a proper draft-free brooding setup. Provide .25 square foot per chick of brooder space. Increase the size as they grow. Quail chicks will need a secure surface to walk on for proper leg development. An old terry cloth towel or paper towels work well. Newspaper is too slippery. For older chicks, pine shavings are ideal. 
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           Temperature
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           : You will need a heat lamp for your chicks. Start your chicks off at 100 degrees for the first two weeks, which is a bit warmer than your average chick. Raise the heat lamp in order to drop the temperature a few degrees every other day until the internal temperature matches the outside ambient air temp, or they've reached about 4 weeks of age. It's important to watch how your quail chicks respond to the temperature of the lamp; huddling under the bright indicates they're likely cold and huddling in shaded areas away from the heat lamp will indicate they are too warm. Adjust the height as necessary to allow the chicks to be comfortable enough to run freely throughout the brooder space.  Keep a thermometer in a lightweight sandwich bag at the bottom of the brooder to monitor the temperature. Note: Quail chicks tend to pile when they sleep at night if they are too cold, and this can lead to crushing of the chicks on the bottom.
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           Feed
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           : Feed quail chicks a high-quality game bird or turkey starter feed for the first six weeks that contains 24% protein. Transition to a breeder feed at 6-7 weeks and remember to always have feed available to your chicks. For the first few days, place the feed on paper towel next to their feeder so they can find it. Add boiled and chopped egg yolk on top of the feed to encourage them to eat. After they are eating well, you can put the feed in the feeder. Older quail can start on a grower or breeder feed. 
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           Water
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           : Use a special quail base on your waterer while your chicks are young as they can fall into a standard base and chill or drown. As soon as you get your chicks into the brooder, immediately dip their beaks in water to teach them how to drink. All quail need to have access to clean drinking water at all times. Warm water is important as cold water can shock and chill the birds. 
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           Juvenile or Adult care
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           : After getting your quail home from the post office, set the closed box in your aviary or enclosure for an hour or so and let the birds calm down and relax. It is important to release your new birds in as quiet and dark of an environment as possible. Provide a high-quality game bird or turkey grower feed and fresh water at all times. Your older quail will not need a brooder or heat lamp.
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           Housing
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           : There are many housing options for adult quail. People usually raise them either in large open flight pens or cages. It is best not to raise them in the same coop as chickens. Bobwhite quail need about 1 square foot per bird to reduce aggression. Coturnix are more domesticated and do fine with a bit less. 
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           Quail are small and sleep on the ground which makes them susceptible to predation. Flight pens will need to be secure. We recommend 1/2 inch hardware cloth. Provide a solid enclosed area at night to be extra safe. Quail like to run so design cages to be longer rather than wider. They also tend to fly or flush straight up if startled. Designing cages with soft tops (like netting) so they avoid crashing into the hard roof. You could also design your cages to be 2 feet high or less, where the quail won't have the space to build up enough speed to crash and cause harm.
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           Practice good husbandry. Disease and parasites can become an issue if the quail have too much exposure to their waste. Wire floors are the cleanest option. Quail do like to dig and to nestle down in bedding when sleeping, and they clean themselves by taking dust or sand baths. Providing your quail a box with sand or shavings would make them more comfortable. 
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           Safe Handling of Poultry
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           : After handling poultry, wash your hands with soap and warm water. Do not let young children, elderly persons, or people with weak immune systems handle or touch live poultry. Do not snuggle or kiss your birds. You can contract salmonella from touching live fowl. Your birds can carry salmonella and still appear healthy and clean. Regularly clean and sanitize your poultry equipment.
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           Texas A and M Quail are a large breed. They are the result of selectively bred quail and are bred especially for meat production. Texas A&amp;amp;M quail produce a light-skinned, light meat quail. It takes 8 weeks to bring them to butcher weight, which is about 10-14 oz birds. They are very easy to clean.
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           The meat of Texas A &amp;amp; M Quail is light and tender and is ready to butcher at approximately eight weeks. Quail hens begin laying eggs very early in life, and the eggs are delicious and highly nutritious. One of the biggest reasons to choose quail is because even a city-dweller can have quail. Quail males are acceptable, as they don't make quite the racket a rooster does. Your day-old baby quail chicks will be shipped via the U.S.Postal Service, ready for your prepared brooder.
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           Housing Requirements: The baby chicks need a covered, ventilated brooder. This can be inexpensively purchased, or one can be fashioned out of a box. Any container that is large enough to house chicks and protect them from drafts will be fine. The easiest bedding is to simply lay a towel on the bottom. They will need a heat lamp with a red bulb as chicks are unable to regulate their body temperatures very well.
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           Diet: Feed chicks game bird or turkey starter. This is what they will eat this their entire lives, although as they get older, you may introduce very small amounts of vegetable matter. Allow the quail to eat as much as they like as they have no problem self-regulating, eating only when they are hungry. If you want your birds to produce organic eggs and meat, be sure to feed them organically, and do not give them the medicated feed. As with all animals, give them fresh clean water daily, preferably in a jar feeder system that allows more than one bird to be able to drink at a time. Dip their beaks once when you first get them so they know where to find them.
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           Breeding: If you want to breed your quail, choose the eggs of your largest birds to incubate.
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           Weight: A newborn quail weighs less than an ounce, but grows very quickly to 10-14 ounces in adulthood.
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           Miscellaneous Notes: Quail males have a unique call. Quail eggs have 4-5 times the nutrients of chicken eggs and don't usually cause allergies.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 17 Aug 2024 12:52:05 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/hatching-quail-chicks</guid>
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      <title>Toby</title>
      <link>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/toby</link>
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           Toby is my everyday companion and in his mind I believe he thinks he's the supervisor of this half acre.
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            Toby's been part of the family for nearly ten years now. We met on a Saturday in November of 2015. MY kids had begged to go to go to Adopt-a-Pet to "just look". Long story short, I succumbed to the pleas of my children, as so many parents do, and we came home with Toby.  This cute little Jack Russell soon won over my heart.
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            Toby came from a shelter in southern Ohio. I suspect that he was a breeder in a puppy mill as he was still fully intact at the age of two. How he got lost or what his name was, we don't know. He does love to run off and explore though so it's no surprise that he got picked up and taken to the shelter. I highly recommend Adopt-a-pet, they're not just humane but loving towards the animals in their care, and they provide an invaluable service to the community.
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            Toby loves being outside as much as I do and If I'm in the yard or garden he's often with me checking things out or relaxing while I work. But despite being a fairly laid back fella he sometimes shows that there's a cold blooded killer under the cute facade. Having a dog outdoors usually means having to deal with wildlife encounters, many of which end tragically. Dogs do what their wired to do and it should be expected that there will be casualties, that's just part of the proposition. I like wildlife and I try to avoid killing animals and that means keeping Toby at bay whenever possible. Having a dog is seen by some as a good way of keeping "pests" under control, but what is a pest? My survival does not depend on the food I grow here so I am free to take a more liberal approach to the wildlife and I prefer a live-and-let-live policy. I do not encourage him to kill wild animals, even when they're eating my garden, so in the absence of that, Toby is just a really good companion. He enriches my life and we enjoy each other's company especially outside. I can't imagine what my life would have been like without Toby. He truly is a member of the family.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 27 Jul 2024 16:16:55 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.half-acre-homestead.com/toby</guid>
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